FARALLÓN DE INESTRILLAS ROCK ART SITE IN AGUILAR DEL RIO ALHAMA

The limestone cliffs of Inestrillas, eroded by the River Alhama and its river basin, wind erosion and atmospheric agents, have formed veritable natural walls that stretch along the riverbanks, also creating wide river floodplains suitable for agriculture. Above the cliffs lie vast, barren hills that are now the habitat of the griffon vulture, which is so abundant in these parts. The Inestrillas cliff is a foothill of the Sierra del Tormo, situated above the ‘Cabeza el Quemado’ peak. The predominant rock type is dolomitic limestone, a stone that is easy to excavate; this was exploited by the ancient inhabitants of this region, who saw an opportunity to seek shelter for their families and flocks by excavating and carving the rock, creating veritable villages clinging to the cliff face. The village of Inestrillas lies on the road linking Soria and Logroño, to the north-east of the town of Aguilar del Río Aldama. We are at a strategic pass, a sort of gateway, as from this point the river begins to narrow. Not far away is the gorge leading to the ancient Celtiberian and Roman city of Contrebia Leucade.

On this cliff we can see a village clinging to the rock face, with buildings whose origins date back to the Early Middle Ages. However, what we see here spans different periods, from the Middle Ages right up to the 20th century. Over time, buildings have been added and renovated, and the purpose of some of them has even changed. If we look to the right, at the end of the cliff, we see a defensive tower for surveillance and control of the pass; opposite, caves, passageways, storehouses, a prison, chicken coops, pigsties and rabbit hutches. Further on, in the background to the left, lies the semi-cliff-side Church of the Nativity, houses and a ruined palace. The complex was connected by passageways, staircases and paths, forming a veritable fortress.
Interestingly, the name of the village of Inestrillas derives from ‘fenestrellas’, meaning ‘little windows’, referring to the numerous openings in the rock that resemble small windows. Today, the village no longer occupies this cliff but extends at its foot, on the river plain. Only the church remains in use. The reason is that the cliff suffers from numerous rockfalls and many buildings eventually collapse due to water seepage. Rock architecture in this region is not an isolated phenomenon, but follows a tradition dating back to the Celtiberian world: for example, in the nearby town of Contrebia Leukade and on Cerro San Miguel in Arnedo, one can see houses and other prehistoric structures. Living on cliffs is common throughout the Rioja Baja. There are quite a few examples preserved in other towns, including Arnedo, with the paradigmatic case of the Cueva de los Cien Pilares, and Santa Eulalia Somera in Arnedillo, with the Cueva del Ajedrezado. Not to mention the countless cave-cellars found in almost every town in La Rioja Baja.